Croatian maritime cuisine in Sibenik

The historic Croatian town of Sibenik lies at the estuary of the Krka River across the Adriatic Sea from the Italian city of Pescara. Sibenik is the oldest town exclusively inhabited by Croats in Croatia, who have been there since at least the 9th century. It boasts a unique cuisine and is especially inviting during the cultural festival in the summer months.

Sibenik has historically resisted occupation, first fighting the Venetians, then the Ottomans, and later the Serbs. Perhaps this is due in part to its being a native Croat town; it was not built atop an old Illyrian, Greek or Roman settlement.

Before coming under 4 centuries of rule by the seafaring Venetians in the 15th century, Sibenik alternated between Croatian and Hungarian control. Even under Venetian control, Sibenik remained relatively autonomous. The town was designed around three fortresses which remain today. Because wood was limited, Sibenik was built largely out of stone with many narrow, winding streets and staircases leading from one part of town to the other.
  
After Croatia’s declaration of independence in 1991, Sibenik was attacked by Serb-led Yugoslav army and paramilitary units who were met by fierce resistance from the town’s residents. The city was finally freed from occupation by the Croatian army in 1995 and has flourished ever since.

Šibenik’s cuisine of sea & land

Sibenik’s culinary tradition is Mediterranean in outlook. Fish, olive oil and fresh fruits are common. Sibenik is also known to have some of the best smoked hams on the Dalmatian Coast, the area that spans the eastern Adriatic coast. The ham comes from the outlying towns of Miljevci, Drnis and Pakovo Selo. It resembles Italian prosciutto and is sliced paper-thin and usually eaten with cheese and olives and served with local wines.

Another favorite dish in Sibenik is the fish stew called Brudet, one of the oldest and favorite of all Dalmatian specialties. The making of Brudet is the way Croatians test someone’s culinary skill. The perfect Brudet is prepared with several types of fish caught that morning at the outdoor market. The fish is cooked with tomatoes, chopped red onion, white wine, olive oil, salt and bay leaf in one pot. The simple stew simmers for nearly an hour.

There is an especially curious Brudet known as Falši that contains no fish, crabs or shellfish. Its recipe is a secret of housewives and chefs. Falši is made only with vegetables and spices, and is cooked in a large pot with a stone taken from the sea!

The mussels in Sibenik’s waters near the Krka River are considered a biological miracle, as they are said to grow three to five times faster than mussels anywhere else in the world. Sibenik’s restaurants and caterers are supposed to be able to prepare more than 140 different mussel dishes with local ingredients. They are served stewed or with risotto, in pâtés, soups or salads. Even bread and savory cookies are made from mussels they’re so prolific in the town! Wild oysters are also everywhere and local residents can be seen picking them out of the sea, opening them up and eating them right on the spot.

The native Soparnjak is another special fish dish made from thin strudel pastry that’s filled with a mixture of Swiss chard, olives, figs, and olive oil. It’s rolled and then baked in a baker’s oven and is usually eaten cold. Although it’s declined somewhat in recent years, more restaurants are now featuring Soparnjak on their menus. 

Away from the sea but still common on menus is the ancient mišni sir cheese made from sheep’s milk naturally curdled in sheepskin. It resembles cottage cheese in appearance. Its distinct flavor comes from being aged in the mountains just above Sibenik. It is usually eaten with fresh bread.

And although they're missed by most tourists because they come in after the holiday season, the Žižula fruit, also known as Zizyphus or Jujube, is used in making preserves unique to the Sibenik area. The fruits grow wild, requiring no special care. They are believed to have come from North Africa and Syria and are common throughout the Middle East, Iran, China, and India. The fruits need exceptionally hot summers to fully mature. When they’re immature the Žižula taste similar to a green apple; when ripe they turn a darker red color and become wrinkled like dates. Most of the Žižula harvest is consumed fresh and the rest is made into a jam or turned into a liqueur consumed locally.

Šibenik cultural summer

In addition to an excellent local cuisine, Sibenik also hosts an annual International Children’s Festival at the end of June which lasts through July. This festival rolls nicely into the Sibenik Cultural Summer, held from the middle of July through the entire month of August. There are a host of cultural offerings, classical & folk music concerts and theatrical events in the town’s square. The towering stone Cathedral, which took 105 years to build, sets a luminous stage.

You can also attend a pilgrimage with Croatians and tourists alike that journeys from Sibenik into the countryside during the summer. The outlying areas have some of the most well preserved parks in Croatia. A common trek heads to the River Krka waterfalls.

The people of Sibenik are a warm, proud people who know their history well. Often recited is the story of the famous battle to defend Sibenik in 1647. After being attacked by more than 20,000 Ottoman soldiers, the town’s residents fiercely resisted the invasion in this David & Goliath match that lasted from August 17 to September 16. The town was defended by all of its residents who could fight and retained its independence.