The season of olive oil

Olives are harvested after grapes, traditionally picked by hand with rakes and ladders. Olive trees amaze with their resistance to everything from harsh winters to extreme heat and drought. Despite the rising prestige of olive oil as a gourmet delicacy, its origins are humble and ancient.

The olive branch is traditionally a sign of peace and olive oil culture remains central to the Mediterranean way of life. To celebrate the arrival of the new oil, numerous events are held in Italy throughout the month of May known as Le Stagioni dell’Olio or the seasons of oil.

The origins of olive cultivation are not fully known. Wild olives were harvested as early as the 8th millennium BC and were grown in the areas of present day Turkey, Israel, Palestine, Lebanon, Syria and Iraq thousands of years before the birth of Christ. The oldest amphorae, the long-necked ovular jars that hold the oil, date to around 3500 BC.

It’s believed that the Ancient Greeks were the first to domesticate olive oil production on a full-scale. Ancient mythology says that the goddess Athena brought the olive tree to the people of Acropolis currying their favor, thus giving Athens its name. The olive tree is described as sacred in both the Bible and the Koran and the early Greek poet Homer called it "liquid gold".

Olive oil came to southern Italy by the 8th century BC. The ancient Romans expanded its production throughout their provinces. Many Italian regions have indigenous olive varieties and some believe their estate’s trees date back to the Ancient Romans. Many varieties have obtained the certification DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta, which regulates products originating exclusively from a designated area with particular characteristics.

Producing "liquid gold"
 
fileadmin/images/Travel/Olive_Oil/olivetree.jpgIdeally olives are harvested when green to a bit purple in color; if too purple they’re likely to be overripe and taint the oil. The olives are removed with rakes or electronic combs, flying from their branches onto the nets covering the ground below. They're pressed quickly to ensure they don’t become too acidic. Most fine oils are made with olives processed the same day of their harvest.

The production hasn’t changed that much since ancient times. After harvest the leaves are removed and the olives are placed, pits and all, into a giant granite mill called a Frantoio where they're crushed. The resulting paste is then smeared onto a round fibrous mat called a fiscolo, which is then stacked atop others on a giant skewer where they are pressed together, releasing the liquid. This liquid is then spun in a centrifuge to separate the oil from the water. This first press is what’s known as extra virgin olive oil and must have less than one percent acidity to be designated as such.

Tasting olive oil

The best way to sample olive oil is like a good wine, on its own and in the right environment. The oils are best tasted slowly and on a spoon. First you should notice the initial taste and consistency on your tongue. Is it smooth and light or heavy and greasy? Fresh oils should be the former. Like a good wine you should then search for the oil’s finer points – Does it hint of fruit, grass, nut, or artichoke? Does it have a strong bite that hits you in the back of the throat? You should distinguish between fruity, bitter, and strong flavors.

Oil from different regions varies in flavor depending on environment and weather and from year to year. Even an estate’s oils can vary in taste depending on these factors. The olive varieties and the way they’re grown and produced determine the oil’s quality. 

Le Stagioni dell’Olio events are held around Italy in May to celebrate the latest regional olive oils and local products. Organized by the Enoteca Italiana of Siena and the Associazione Nazionale Città dell’Olio, the tastings are held in regional wine cellars. This year’s featured region was Abruzzo.

Featured events

Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco
via Torino, 8/a - 12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel. & fax 0173.635251

The olive oil and wine tasting events were held in the Enoteca located in the town’s stunning 15th century stone cathedral built by Barbaresco’s residents in homage for their fertile land. The renowned Barbaresco DOCG wine will be offered with DOP oils from the nearby Liguria region. The production of the wine has its historical roots in Roman times, when huge areas were deforested and varietals resembling the now world famous Nebbiolo were planted. The Enoteca has wines from over 80 local producers. 

The skinny coastal region of Liguria borders France to the west and includes the Italian Rivera overlooking the Ligurian Sea. The olive trees grow on farmland dramatically chiseled out of the region’s steep, rugged coastline - evidence of the determination and hard work of generations of farmers. The towns dotting this picturesque landscape are better accessed by train or boat than by car. In the town of Riomaggiore you have to travel by elevator to reach the town’s different levels, built atop one another!  Ligurian oils are known for being mild, with a light fruity flavor and golden yellow color.

Enoteca Regionale del Veneto
Via Cavalieri di Vittorio, Veneto 13 - 30020 Pramaggiore (VE)
Tel. 0421.799036 – fax 0421.799275

The Enoteca Regionale del Veneto in the town of Pramaggiore hosted an event with the Veneto’s prized oils and local DOP products. The delicate yet aromatic Montasio cheese produced exclusively in the Montasio Mountains of northeast Italy was featured along with antipasti from the local consortium.

Naturally the tasting was accompanied by the region’s extraordinary white wines cellared on the premises including Pinot Grigio, Riesling, the local Sauvignon di Lison-Pramaggiore, as well as Merlot and Cabernet. All of the featured wines are regulated by the DOC or DOCG requirements.

The Enotecas can be visited throughout most of the year, although they're usually closed for holidays and a summer break.